Kiyohime Japanese Maple

Japanese Maples are known for their brilliant fall color, but a few cultivars also put on an impressive spring show. Such is the case with my Kiyohime Japanese Maple, which was introduced to Sutherland last year. The spring foliage is green with red margins, but reads as copper from a distance. As the weather warms throughout the season, the leaves will become darker green. In the fall, expect a yellow-orange show.

For me, it’s just as exciting as any spring flowering tree or shrub, but then again, I’m a ‘foliage guy.’ This little tree may only reach 6-7 feet in height, but the horizontally-tiered branches can get 8-12 feet wide. It’s the perfect punctuation at the end of the Hosta garden.

I purchased this Japanese Maple from Pine View Nursery in Leitchfield, KY. I’m tempted to buy more Kiyohime to keep in the containers on the patio. Do you have a favorite Japanese Maple? If so, let me know.

Acer palmatum ‘Kiyohime’

Lawn Mowing Guidelines

My always-reliable Honda push mower.The secret to a great looking lawn lies in the mowing. Sure, you may need to fertilize or use a herbicide from time to time, but proper mowing can help your lawn look lush and healthy all season long while reducing the need for chemical applications. Follow my mowing guidelines (riding or pushing) to stay on the cutting edge: 

• Mow at 3 inches

• Mow frequently

• Return the clippings

• Fertilize in the fall

Let’s break it down…

Mowing Height

There are many benefits to keeping your mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. Chief among them is weed control.

It may seem counterintuitive, but mowing too short will increase weeds in the lawn. Like most plants, weeds want and need sun to grow. If you mow your lawn really short, you’re just giving them what they want. Consequently, weeds such as crabgrass and dandelions will proliferate. So set your mower at 3 inches and leave it there. It will minimize weed population.

Most species of grass do well with a mowing height anywhere between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. I think 3 inches looks great and is easy to remember. If you have a play area for children, I recommend you mow at 3.5 inches. It will feel luxurious and help soften their fall.

Lawns that are mowed at the recommended height will have deeper, stronger root systems and better color overall.Place on a hard surface such as a sidewalk or driveway. With the mower powered OFF, measure up from the bottom to the blade level and adjust to your preferred mowing height.

Mow Frequently

Follow the one-third rule. Mow as frequently as needed but never remove more than one-third of the leaf blades at once. Removing more than one-third may cause root growth to cease while the leaves and shoots are regrowing. You may need to mow up to twice a week in the spring, but only once every 2 to 3 weeks in the summer.

Return the Clippings

Ok, I’ll admit that I don’t always follow this guideline when I mow the front lawn in early spring. The back yard always gets the clippings returned. It doesn’t matter if you have a “mulching” mower or not, a discharge mower returns clippings just fine.

You return up to 25% of fertilizer nutrients back to the lawn in the clippings. And contrary to popular belief, clippings do NOT contribute significantly to thatch build-up. You will also help reduce water evaporation by returning the clippings. Bagging the grass takes a third more time to complete the job. Who wants that? 

One final point: if you must bag your clippings, please do not throw them in the trash. This can increase your trash by up to 10% and take up unnecessary space in landfills. A better option is to use the clippings as a mulch.

Fertilize in the Fall

This is an easy one. Like most people, I’m mowing frequently in the spring and don’t need to increase the need for mowing by adding fertilizer. Fall fertilization promotes a healthy turf without stimulating excessive leaf growth.

If you’re inclined to fertilize only once a year, do it in September. If you would like to fertilize twice a year, do it in September and early November. And as always, read all labels and follow the instructions.

Final Mowing Guidelines

• Use a different mowing pattern each time you mow
• DO NOT bump trees

• Do not mow when there is drought stress
• Do not mow when it is excessively wet

Be Safe

• Pick up all debris before mowing
• Keep hands and feet away from the blades

Be Environmentally Friendly

• DO NOT discharge clippings into the street
• Follow ozone alerts 

Mower Maintenance

• Keep mowing equipment in good working condition
• Have mower serviced prior to the heavy spring mowing period
• Mower blades should be sharped each spring and as needed throughout the season 

TIP: A dull mower blade frays the ends of the blades and results in brown tips which are unsightly. Have mower blades sharpened prior to the heavy mowing season.

Spring Color Studies

Every time I pass by a window, there is burst of color that catches my eye. I couldn’t ignore these color stories.

East Magnolia

Urn with Yellow Pansies

Time To Control Crabgrass

I mowed the lawn this week for the first time this season and that’s got me thinking about lawn maintenance. Indiana was very hot and extremely dry last year, which made for crabgrass proliferation. Our lawn was definitely affected and to help control it this year, I am applying a Preemergence Herbicide. The word “Preemergence” is key here. The prefix “pre” literally means that this type of herbicide must be applied BEFORE the crabgrass emerges.

I’m using a product by Scott’s called Halts. You can find this as well as many other products at your local hardware store. It’s in granular form, so I’ll simply dump the contents into the mini spreader and walk it over the grass. As the wheels turn, the product is broadcast onto the yard with even coverage.

So how does one know when germination will occur?

Check with your local extension office to see the predicted crabgrass germination date for your area. Remember that preemergence herbicides must be applied at least two weeks prior to these dates to control crabgrass. In Indianapolis, the date is April 21– now count back two weeks and that’s when you should apply the product. Many of these products can be applied as early as mid March. I think April 1st is good and easy to remember.

There are other seasonal indicators for crabgrass germination. If you see any of these, it’s probably to late for a Preemergence herbicide.

• When redbuds are in full bloom
• Before lilacs bloom
• Before forsythia blooms drop
• Before dandelions reach puff ball stage

All is not lost though. If you can’t get to it before germination occurs, you’ll have to wait until it is visible and apply at Postemergence herbicide. Postemergence herbicides control crabgrass after it has emerged and are most successful on small crabgrass plants. These types of products are a bit more difficult to use. Check with your local hardware store or garden center for product recommendations. And always remember to read the label before using any product.

The Perennial Plate

The Perennial Plate Episode 52: Real Food Road Trip from Daniel Klein on Vimeo.

Interesting project by Daniel Klein. I’m totally into it!

The Perennial Plate is an online weekly documentary series dedicated to socially responsible and adventurous eating. The episodes follow the culinary, agricultural and hunting explorations of chef and activist, Daniel Klein. Season One took place over a calendar year in Minnesota where every Monday for 52 weeks, Klein and cameragirl Mirra Fine released short films about good food. In Season Two, Klein will be traveling across America, taking the viewer on a journey to appreciate and understand where good food comes from and how to enjoy it. Starting on May 9th, the weekly videos will continue, bringing the audience along for stories of urban gardens, long drives, blood, hunting and guts…

Spring Awakening

So often spring crops up with such fervor, that we hardly notice its subtle colors aside from the obvious greening of the lawns or the intense hues that daffodils and tulips offer us. Before the show is over, take time to admire and appreciate the delicate, soft and unexpected hues too. Below are a few of my favorites. Click on the first image to begin the slide show.

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Radical Pruning

Houseplants are tricky. They either flourish or flatline. That’s been my experience at least. But perhaps more frustrating is when they lie in limbo- no new growth, no new foliage.

Such was the case with a Maidenhair Fern I purchased at Smith & Hawken several years ago. It was more or less at a standstill and getting ‘leggy’ as time passed. I noticed several baby fronds pushing their way out of the soil, but they never matured. I decided I would try some radical pruning and see where that took us.

My thought process began with sizing up the plant. It was healthy, but not growing. It was as though it had gone into a permanent state of dormancy. It was tall, sparse, and new fronds emerged from the soil but withered away soon after. This led me to believe that the old growth was using all the plant energy and preventing the new growth from maturing.

Drastic pruning stresses a plant, but spring is right around corner and it’s the absolute best time of the year to prune a houseplant– just before the start of the growing season.

Emotionally, I’m to the point where I’m willing to lose the plant if it doesn’t survive the big haircut. I’m optimistic that it will prevail. After all, those new little fronds tell me that it is intent on growing.

So here’s my plan: I’m going to cut off all the stems at the base, be diligent about keeping the soil moist and raise the humidity around the fern to encourage new growth. Follow the progress below. 

Jan. 19, 2011. After removing the old growth, tiny fronds are revealed.February 11, 2011. The momentum continues and new fronds are still emerging. Adding a bit fertilizer today.March 18, 2011. The fertilizer has helped tremendously. It looks better than ever.New growth continues to emerge.

I’m happy to report that this experiment has proved successful. It’s officially spring now and the fern seems quite content with the situation. It continues to grow and become full with healthy fronds. I’ll report back on our progress near summer.

Say No To Mulch Volcanoes

‘Mulch Volcano’ is term used to describe a deep pile of mulch around the base of a tree or shrub that forms a mound or volcano shape. You see them everywhere, especially on or around commercial properties, as grounds crews and gardeners alike are busy applying hardwood mulches to beds, borders and trees.

Generally speaking, there are many benefits to mulching, but I wonder if people see these volcanoes and think it s ok to copy this? It most certainly is not and there are several reasons why one should avoid it.

The consequences of overmulching trees and shrubs:

Piling soil, mulch, or both, against the trunk flare has been shown to prevent needed gas exchange causing the inner bark tissue (phloem) stress, dysfunction and subsequent root stress.

Overmulching can promote excessive soil moisture which can lead to root rot.

Fungal and bacterial diseases, crown and butt rot can also be caused by excessive mulching.

Mulch that touches the trunk of a tree can lead to rodents chewing on the bark as well as insect problems.

So, what s the proper way to mulch? Follow these guidelines:

Apply the mulch to the surface of the soil anywhere from 2 to 4 inches thick.

Do not allow the mulch to touch the trunk or stems. Keep it about 3 to 6 inches away.

Apply the mulch from the center of the tree to the dripline if practical. Otherwise, at least a 3-foot radius around the trunk.

 

Shopping online at Great Garden Plants

I met Chris Hansen, VP of Great Garden Plants, Inc., a few weeks ago at a symposium titled Passion and Pursuit, The Search for the Ideal Perennial!. Yeah, it was a garden-geek convention (I include myself in that group) presented by the Perennial Plant Association and The Indianapolis Museum of Art. It couldn’t have come at a better time as I was up to my neck in snow and growing tired of winter in general. Of all the excellent speakers that day, one guy really stood out from the crowd– Chris Hansen. I was blown over by his energy and enthusiasm for horticulture and the nursery business. Chris mentioned that he and Mary Walters started Great Garden Plants, Inc. in 2006. “A new company” I passively said to myself, “probably not offering very much yet.” Well, by the end of his dynamic presentation, I had made a note to myself, “must check out greatgardenplants.com.”

Don’t let the razzle-dazzle fool you, there is a wealth of information on this site.

And so, I did. And it wasn’t what I was expecting. What was I expecting? It certainly wasn’t the animated-neon-Times-Square-esque site that was flashing before my eyes! I had to chuckle. I even asked myself, “Did I go to the wrong site?” And this got me thinking about buying plants online and the reluctance that often accompanies it. Selling plants online is certainly not a new idea, but it’s not the most common way to buy them. Let’s face it, you’re bound to make less mistakes at your local garden center since they will mostly sell plants that thrive in your specific area. But online retailers have a broader audience, so you have to really read the plant descriptions to make sure your selections are appropriate to your particular zone. (See post on Hardiness Zones) My absolute favorite feature on greatgardenplants.com is the “Search by Growing Zone” function (beneath the pink navigation bar). Simply select your hardiness zone from the drop down menu and boom, there they all are. 

 The green tabs and pink navigation bar are a great place to start exploring this site.

At first glance, it’s a visually exuberant site with numerous navigation choices. I decided to poke around a bit and came up with a strategy for shopping the site. First, I suggest one begin by reading left to right from the top of the page. Follow the green tabs to select a category, click and you’ll find all the groups in that category. Select a group and shop away! The “Collections” tab (top left) has great predesigned combos if you struggle with plant combinations. Be sure to check out the pink band just beneath the green tabs. Click on “New Plants” to see new and exciting things just hitting the market. Also in the pink band, you’ll find some atypical categories like: “Free,” “Plants under $10,” and “Clearance.” But what impresses me most about Great Garden Plants is all the gardening info they share. There are all sorts of gardening topics and tips in the “Garden Info” section. They have an extensive video library which features detailed plant descriptions. There’s even videos explaining how your order is pulled, processed and shipped.

The videos (marked with yellow & black play buttons) are well produced and informative. There are many “how-to” topics in the Garden Info section.

If you know what you’re looking for, use the “Search by Plant” drop down menu beneath the pink banner, or the “Great Plants” list on the left side of the page.

And finally, a section on the site which must really be pointed out is the “About Us” section. You’ll find it towards the bottom of the page on the left side. In this day and age, if a company is not completely transparent about what they stand for and how they do business, well, shop at your own risk. Great Garden Plants spells it all out for you, from plant sizes, shipping, to guarantees and a contact phone number that is actually easy to find. So while the site might seem a bit zany at first, my bet is that you’ll be won over, if for nothing else, the great prices. Everything you need to know is there. I think you’ll find it a high-octane, but charming experience overall.

In New Food Culture, a Young Generation of Farmers Emerges

Tyler and Alicia Jones on their farm in Corvallis, Ore. Credit: Leah Nash for The New York Times

With a new food culture whetting interest in agriculture, more people under 40 are choosing farming as a career. I invite you to read the The New York Times article by Isolde Raftery.

Follow the link:

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/06/us/06farmers.html